Motor suspension installation

This second suspension article will feature CPP's front-suspension tubular upper and lower control arms, shocks, springs, engine mounts, and transmission crossmember. The tubular upper and lower control arms are designed to add 5 degrees of caster while providing full wheel travel and as little friction as possible.

The tubular arms are made from 1-inch wall DOM tubing, and the pivot barrels are thick 1-inch. The bushings are made from self-lubricating, non-squeak, patented plastic that will outlast any rubber or urethane and work at temperatures in excess of degrees Fahrenheit. The billet alloy steel cross-shafts and sleeves are zinc-plated for lasting performance. The sleeves have an interlocking design that prevents the hardware from ever working loose.

The pivots carry both forward and back loads the original cross-shaft pivot was designed to carry a forward or back load, not both. The control arm assemblies are a simple bolt-in installation with no modification required.

They work with all factory and replacement power steering designed and developed a tubular transmission mount that is a direct bolt-on OEM replacement. For custom installations, the tubular mount can be located any place along the frame by drilling holes in the framerails.

The 1-inch tubing provides maximum exhaust and ground clearance. The design also allows the exhaust to run over the mount for even more ground clearance for slammed trucks. The tubular engine mounts area fully gusseted twin-tube design with heavy-gauge mounting flanges. These mounts offer extra room for brake, fuel, transmission, and air lines inside the framerails.

The CPP 3-inch-drop precision wound coil springs are heat-treated and tempered to withstand millions of cycles without losing their strength and sagging. They provide a sporty spring rate that complements the tubular control arms. The adjustable, nitrogen charged shocks are specifically designed for lowered trucks. The compression and rebound rates are matched to the CPP lowering coils and have an external adjustment to fine tune the ride and driving style.

The anti-roll bar kit features a 1- inch-diameter solid roll bar with modern styling end links. The updated roll bar end links allow the bar to work bet- ter, with less binding and a longer bushing life. We will be capturing the highlights on digital as Jeff and Danny install the CPP front suspension, transmission crossmember, and engine mount kits on the '67 Chevy C10's frame.

To complete the frontend overhaul, an all new CPP transmission crossmember, poly trans mount, a pair of new engine mount brackets, and poly engine mounts will be installed. The crusty front suspension components will be disassembled and replaced. The '67 frame was actually pre-fitted using '73 up-front control arms and other suspension components. The frame was given many hours of intense labor, including welding, grinding, and sanding, before the matte black paint was applied.

The lower control arm's one-piece, stamped, lowered spring pocket is flush with the lower control arm tube's bottom radius for a clean appearance. The upper and lower control arms will be teamed up with a pair of 2-inch drop spindles that will be major factors in the nose's lowering equation.

When lowering your early truck's sus- pension, it is important to make the undercarriage as flat as possible. One of the potential hangups is the OEM transmission crossmember that rests below the lower framerail plane. Thread starter Phosphoric Start date Oct 13, Phosphoric Standard Member.

Just cleared out my loft and have reinstated my vinyl collection and RP3 to play it. Speed variations soon started which were mostly sorted by clean and lubrication of the main bearing. The drive belt was a bit iffy so I cut about 10 mm out of it and re-joined it.

Upshot is that it now plays pretty much the right speed but in my investigation stage I took the motor out for inspection. I'm now having a job re-assembling the suspension to keep the drive spindle vertical. The upshot is that the belt rides up and down the sub platter with a corresponding change in speed.

I have new drive belt and suspension O ring on order. Does anybody have setup instructions for the motor suspension? Please don't suggest the motor upgrade, I can't afford that just yet. How much does the upgrade cost and what does it cover.

I've fiddled with the motor suspension and now got the motor spindle upright. That and a new drive belt seems to have done the trick. I checked the turntable speed and it did revolutions in exactly seconds so spot on there.

All sorted Having played several albums,maybe 20, then speed suddenly dropped. It plays constantly slow, no variation. Switch off, scratch head, try again , perfect. It does not lose speed during play, only on switch on at random intervals. Can't therefore be TT bearing or drive belt. Therefore must be motor controller? Some electronic component is not coming up to spec on switch on sometimes. Any thoughts on this?

I'm handy with a soldering iron. Ok, found a link to Rega's service manuals so now able to set the motor up properly. Also found elsewhere that my problem may be a dodgy capacitor on the PCB.

Ha a look and it is indeed cracked. Off to Maplins to get a new one. OK, about 10 albums later All is smooth and steady in the Phosphoric household now.