Place the outlet into the hole. Now, remove the outlet and apply a bead of silicone gutter sealant around the perimeter of the opening. Immediately insert the outlet into the opening and fasten the rivets through the holes. Connect the end cap s to the gutter using silicone sealant and screws. Hold the cap in place and insert a single sheet-metal screw into its hole.
Now, remove the temporary screw and attach a rivet into the same location. Use a putty knife to smooth the silicone and press it into the joint. Part 3. Cut the gutters to size with a hacksaw and heavy-duty tin snips. Mark the point to be cut on the gutters with an erasable marker. Hold the handle with your dominant hand and keep your index finger parallel to the top, pointing toward the cutting direction for support.
Use the other hand to hold the frame at the top by the wingnut. Move the saw back and forth, using your dominant hand to move forward and backward and your non-dominant hand to apply downward pressure. Use heavy-duty wire snips for smaller cuts. For gutters that run around corners, cut the appropriate angle—usually 45 degrees—at the applicable end. Attach the gutter's fascia brackets to the rafter tails.
Apply soap to the lag screws to make it easier for them to penetrate the fascia. Review the manufacturer's recommendations for your type of gutter. Many gutter hangers come with long screws to go through your gutters and into the wood. To screw through the metal, turn them slowly at first so they can catch. Mount the gutters to the fascia brackets. Lay your gutter into the fascia brackets that you attached to the rafter tails. Rotate your gutter upward pushing it away from you until the edge closest to the fascia fastens into the hook on the back of the bracket.
Secure the gutters to the fascia brackets using machine screws. Afterward, insert a 1 inch 2. Attach the gutters to the fascia.
Be sure to do this once along every 2 foot 0. Attach the downspout to the gutters via the downspout outlet. Screw the downspout into the gutter outlet that extends downward from the gutter. Be sure that the tapered end of the downspout is facing the appropriate direction for drainage.
Afterward, apply a heavy bead of sealant to the connection seams between the downspout and its connector and let them sit overnight to dry. Join a 3—4 in 7. Did you know you can get expert answers for this article? Unlock expert answers by supporting wikiHow. Barry Zakar Handyman. Barry Zakar. Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer.
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Repair any fascia rot or eave damage prior to installing gutters. Helpful 2 Not Helpful 0. Test the newly installed gutters for leaks and proper water diversion by running a garden hose at the highest point. Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0. Temporarily tack the center of a long gutter section or have a friend hold it in place while you secure the ends.
Insert leaf guards to help prevent gutter clogging if your house or office is located on a densely wooded lot. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. Paint nay wooden fascia boards with a water-resistant coating before you mount your gutters.
It's a good idea to ask someone to help you install the gutters. Long gutters can be difficult for one person to maneuver alone. Cutting on the ground is easier and more precise. Take this opportunity to preassemble the gutters and join them together, because attempting to assemble and cut on a ladder above your head will not only produce inaccuracies, but it can create an unnecessary safety risk.
During this time, you will want to make sure that the gutter runs are the proper length of the home and are cut to join with the other parts of the gutter system. Using the caulk, you will want to join the gutter systems together at the corners so they are properly sealed and prevent water from leaking through the system. Caulk is strong and prevents water from breaking through in these corners. Additionally, when you are cutting the length of your gutter runs, make sure the ends extend a few inches beyond the roof to capture the excess water coming down from overhanging shingles.
Once you have outlined your gutter runs for your home, you will need to attach the downspouts, which are used to carry the rushing water safely down the side of the home and protect the roof and siding from excessive water damage. At the bottom of the downspouts should be outlets where the water leaves the gutter system, and you will want to ensure that the water is not pooling in the same place and causing damage to the foundation.
In order to properly cut and install these outlets, you will need to use the duckbill tin snips so that these outlets allow water to safely and quickly leave the downspout. You do not want the water to start pooling in the downspout, as too much water will become heavy and could damage the downspout.
Before you start hanging the newly assembled gutters, it is pertinent to set your proper slope. You need to do this by first hammering a nail a half-inch into the roof, at least a half-inch below the shingles and on the higher side of the gutter run.
You do not need a large slope, but just enough to keep the water moving once it hits the gutters and traveling towards the downspouts and outlets. If it sits flat, then the water could pool too fast during heavy rain and tear the gutter down from the weight. Apply your fascia brackets with a chalk line so you can straighten them upon application. After you have set your slope for your gutters, it is time to start hanging the different gutter sections.
Use a small slope in each gutter section for about 8 or 10 feet to keep the water traveling to the downspout. During heavy rainfall, this keeps the water moving quickly and clearing out the gutters faster than the rain can fall. Along the gutter installation should be shutter flashings to prevent the water from building on the roof. After you have hung all of your gutter sections, you will need to go back around this system and apply these flashing pieces to prevent any further damage.
Use one-inch roofing nails to secure these flashing and ensure that they will stay and not strip over time due to exposure. Keeping water from behind the gutters means that your soffit and fascia will be protected from the water also, and prolong their lifespan on your home.
Since they are the strength behind the gutter system, it is essential to keep them protected so that your gutter system lasts for a long time. The hangers that you will install on the gutter installation process are often hidden.
You need to install these hangers at least every 2 feet or shorter to ensure the security of the gutter runs along the sides of the home.
They are screwed into the backside of the gutter run, hidden from view and easy to complete. Caps come in left and right profiles, and can be mechanically fastened with screws or rivets, or simply glued in place with gutter lap sealer. We riveted the top front flange and used lap-seal caulk on the rest of the joint. Next, install a downspout outlet fitting in the gutter. Measure carefully to determine the best location for the outlet fitting.
Then, set the fitting on the bottom of the gutter and trace around it. Cut a starter hole in the gutter with a chisel, drill, or sabre saw and nibble out the finished opening with tin snips. Finally, insert the filling into the hole and fasten it with short screws. As an alternative to installing the outlet fittings, you can buy in. With all the necessary fittings attached to this length of gutter, install a hanger bracket every 2 to 3 ft. Tip the hooked end of the bracket under the front flange and press the remaining end over the back fo the gutter.
With help, lift the gutter in place, and secure the corner first, screwing the bracket into the roof's fascia. Secure the rest of the hangers with 2-in galvanized nails or screws. And, a level gutter is the obvious answer when there's a downspout at both ends, such as on our hip roof. Longer gutters and larger roofs require more downspouts. As a general rule, install one downspout for every 30 ft.
You have two options when it comes to splicing gutters end to end. You can use a splice fitting, like those used on the inside corner, or you can overlap in the direction of the water flow. Both methods work, but we prefer to overlap. A slip coupling, no matter how ell attached, tends to work as a hinge, Overlapping keeps things straight and draws less attention. Begin by applying a heavy bead of lap sealer with a caulk gun at least 4 in.
Run the bead up both sides. Then, set the new length of gutter into the installed length with about 5 in. Where the gutter wraps around an outside corner, first attach splice fittings to the corner piece with rivets, connect one splice to the preceding length of gutter apron. Install the next length of gutter and fasten it in place with hidden brackets, and then rivet the splice connections. Continue in this fashion until you've installed all the necessary gutter and downspout outlets.
Finally caulk all seams with a generous amount of gutter lap sealer. All that remains now is to install the downspouts and downspout extensions. Start by pushing the female end of a downspout elbow onto the first outlet fitting. Then, hold a second elbow against the corner of the house, in line with the first elbow. Slide the short length of the downspout onto the bottom of the top elbow and slide the top of the lower elbow onto the short length.
Rivet all joints, including the connection with the outlet. Install two U-shaped downspout brackets on the corner of the house, one high and one low. Bring the downspout to within 1 ft. Finally trim a notch in one end of a in. Just cut several inches from the top half and screw the extension to the elbow on each side.
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