Phil Wood also offers a large variety of axles of different lengths to fit square-taper and splined cranks. Some of the instructions for Phil Wood bottom brackets below are helpful for other brands and models as well. This information is a supplement to the instructions on the Phil Wood site.
See Sheldon's bottom-bracket crib sheet for information on dimensions and see the selection at Harris Cyclery for details of axle lengths. Chainline can further be adjusted during installation by repositioning the mounting rings. The Phil Wood axle is shoulderless -- press-fit into the bearing cartridges -- and so its offset can be adjusted when the bearings are replaced. If you are not sure of the threading of the bottom bracket shell, measure it with a thread-pitch gauge or by trying to thread in bottom-bracket cups or mounting rings with known threading.
The correct size will start and turn easily. Do not try to force a fit, or you will damage the threading. The right-side of British and Raleigh bottom brackets is threaded counterclockwise. The Phil Wood cartridge dimensioned for a 68 mm bottom bracket works with most bicycles.
The Shimano UN cartridge described later in this article is narrower than the 68 mm Phil Wood cartridge. Dimensions are as follows:. The cartridges in the image below are, from top to bottom, a Phil Wood cartridge for a 73 mm bottom-bracket shell; newer and older Phil Wood cartridges for a 68 mm shell also now listed as for a mm shell ; and a Shimano UN72 cartridge.
The right-side bearing faces are aligned; the difference in length at the left end of the cartridges is clear. If you use a cartridge which is too narrow for the bottom-bracket shell,, the mounting rings may go in too far and run up onto partially-cut threads inside the bottom-bracket shell. The mounting rings may bind and not engage the cartridge fully, or the threads may compress the mounting rings and cartridge, resulting in difficult installation and accelerated bearing wear.
As of this writing August, , only a few of the longer Phil Wood cartridges remain in stock. While the shorter cartridge will work with a 73 mm bottom-bracket shell, it is marginal with a 76 mm Raleigh Twenty bottom-bracket shell. See our article about Raleigh compatibility for details. You can test whether a bottom bracket cartridge will work by threading in the mounting rings without the cartridge, until they begin to get hard to turn.
Make sure that the threads in the bottom-bracket shell are clean, because dirty or corroded threads can make the mounting rings hard to turn before reaching the end of the threads. The width between the outer faces of the mounting rings must be less than the dimension given in the table above. The mounting rings will thread in past the outer ends of the bicycle's bottom bracket shell, so measure the shell width and subtract the inset to the face of the mounting ring at both ends.
Bear in mind that the chainline will only be adjustable within the limits set by the depth of the threading, and by sufficient engagement of both mounting rings. To avoid corrosion, different bottom-bracket shell materials require different mounting-ring materials, as indicated on the Harris Cyclery bottom-bracket page..
Phil Wood has special, wider mounting ring and lockring for use with a Shimano E-type front derailer , which attaches with a ring clamped under the flange of a right-side bottom bracket cup. Park Tool makes an even fancier tool for Phil Wood mounting rings.
Phil Wood instructions recommend using two pro tools so you can easily turn both mounting rings at the same time. Unless your bicycle's cranks have extractor crankbolts, you also may need a crank remover , even for a new installation.
You may need a rubber mallet to tap a mounting-ring tool into engagement, or to dislodge a mounting ring, and a hand-held grinder to remove projections inside the frame. To remove a Phil Wood bottom bracket for replacement or to readjust the chainline, first remove the cranks cotterless or cottered , then unscrew one mounting ring.
You may have to tap the mounting ring tool into place with a mallet, especially if the splines of the mounting ring are corroded. Pad the tool with the jaws of your large adjustable wrench or an old bearing cup so the the mallet will not strike the end of the axle.
If the cartridge comes partway out, but won't slip out the rest of the way, the thicker part at one end is caught on something inside the bottom bracket shell. Usually, this is the screw that holds a cable guide in place under the bottom bracket, so remove that. After removing one mounting ring, the other will usually remain attached to the cartridge.
You can usually pry it off easily with a flat-blade screwdriver. If that doesn't work, remove the other mounting ring that is still inside the bottom bracket, then thread the cartridge with its attached mounting ring into the frame. Attach a crank to the opposite end of the axle and wiggle it around to loosen the cartridge from the mounting ring. Then, if necessary, tap lightly on the end of the axle to push the cartridge out of the mounting ring.
Before installing the mounting rings, the threading inside the frame must be clean. You may need to scrape old threadlock compound out with a tap or thread gauge. Clean the threads thoroughly with solvent and let them dry. Insert the cartridge so the "Phil" label in the middle reads correctly from riding position on the bicycle. Get both mounting rings started by hand, then tighten them down. With all modern frames, and with older English-, Raleigh- and Swiss-threaded frames, the right-hand mounting ring is left-threaded -- so you can easily tighten one mounting ring at a time.
As that mounting ring tries to turn the cartridge, it will tighten the opposite mounting ring, which is threaded the opposite way. You can adjust the chainline by using the tool alternately on one side and then the other.
With French and Italian threaded frames, both sides are right-threaded, and tightening one mounting ring may tend to unscrew the other. The entire assembly will then migrate toward the other side of the bicycle, and one or both mounting rings may not slide all the way onto the end of the cartridge. For use with … read more. Wheels Manufacturing Bearing Extractors … read more. Professional, shop-quality installation press tools … read more.
Press adaptors for sealed bearing installation press. Wheels Manufacturing Press Adaptors … read more. The SHX-1 Slide Hammer Extractor is a professional solution specifically designed for removing press fit cartridge bearings from bicycle components. Utilizing … read more.
High-quality press is designed to install bottom bracket or hub cartridge bearings that have a minimum inside diameter of 10mm. Required … read more.
Press adaptors for sealed bearing installation press … read more. Includes two multiple-size Drifts Made in the USA and laser etched for easy identification … read more. Bearing-size specific cartridge bearing removal tool. Bearing extractors set for pushing out 22mm, 24mm and 30mm ID sealed bearings from bottom … read more.
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Fits mm I. Fits mm I. Individual extractor for removing sealed bearing Insert the extractor into the bearing, tighten one side with an Allen key, and the collet expands to grip the inside of the bearing Tap the extractor out with a punch Wheels Manufacturing Bearing Extractor Bearing Tool UPC: This tool set allows you to pull bearings that are pressed into a housing as found in all hubs and pivots.
Works with any bearing with an inside diameter between mm. Bearing extractors set for pushing out sealed bearings from bottom bracket cups. Pusher for Wheels Mfg sealed bearing extractors. Bearing press makes for trouble-free installation of new bearings.
These extractors remove sealed bearings with an inside diameter of 8mm to 30mm. Insert the extractor into the bearing, tighten one side with an Allen key, and the collet expands to grip the inside of the bearing. Tap the extractor out with a punch. Receiver cup for Wheels Mfg sealed bearing extractors.
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