For the rear of the car, there are currently three basic approaches to downforce: 1 Spoiler 2 Pod mounted wing 3 Body mounted wing fairly "new" idea around here Based on my understanding of the basic concepts involved, I recently "discovered" something that may be obvious.
If my assumptions are right, a pod mounted wing has a slight disadvantage in that it adds to the unsprung weight. However, since the downforce is applied directly to the pod, it tends to magnify the effect on the rear traction, and to significantly reduce the effect on the front wheels, since the wing is normally mounted directly above the axle, there is almost no way for it to affect the front of the car, except for the force of "drag" using the vertical wing wire as a lever to lift the front end or the slight lever force of the wings mounting points pushing down on the horizontal part of the wire -- both pretty slight.
Also, the downforce of the wing is applied equally to both rear tires, since "normal" mounting points are centered over the axle. However, the downforce from spoilers and body mounted wings is transmitted through the body mounting posts to the main chassis plate This means, for instance that an oval car's "tweak" adjustments also adjust how the downforce is applied!
Downforce is not necessarily applied equally to the rear tires. If you are "tweaked" to apply more chassis weight to the left rear, for instance, then more of the downforce will also go to the left rear. Also, since the downforce is applied through the chassis, some of it will go to the front of the car -- thus producing more "balanced" downforce. This should mean a more stable car without the severe "push" that a pod mounted wing can cause?
However, the longer horizontal mounting wire for a body mounted wing should increase the leverage of the wing on the front of the car, and with extreme downforce, could cause some lift at the front, in the form of reduced front traction? Time for all you "closet engineers" to put on your thinking caps now Tom Frahm "If you cannot win, make the one in front of you break the track record". Top 1. Spam Report. Crafts Forum. Board index Radio-controlled model. Dunt » Thu, 02 Nov I want to set my 10L up for carpet oval racing.
I was thinking about trying two things: 1. Making the inside wheels a smaller diameter. Tom Frahm. Or at least that you both are running the same setup, whichever side. In your case, for instance, by using a thinner T-bar, and then heavily tweaking the LR, you are storing energy in the T-bar because on the track, it will twist to allow both rear tires to s. Somehow, part of the last paragraph of my earlier posting got "chopped off" -- here is the complete second paragraph: By the way, I always run the thickest T-bar I can handle for the Oval, because I want to be able to control the left-to-right loading in the rear, and the thinner the T-bar, the more side-to-side flex you get and the harder it is to control -- you have to start going to additional shocks or roll bars to handle this side flex, and those things add weight and complexity to the car's chassis, things I don't want or need.
The Usenet newsgroups seem to be having some pretty bad problems with lost or delayed postinges..??? Bench Racing on Carpet Oval Setup 3. RJ Speed bomber body or McAllister or bomber body only. No alterations or scraping to the body. Wheel well area can be trimmed forward or back to fit the location of the tire. The only holes allowed in the body are the 4 body mount holes.
CRC rubber carpet tires only. The only allowed modification of the tires is gluing the sidewall. Any and all other modifications to the tires is illegal.
Electronics 1. TOUR Fantom All motors are to be checked and set by your local authorized Spec 10 ambassador or the motor can be shipped to Southern Indiana RC Speedway for proper tuning. Servo must be a standard low profile servo.
All cars must cross the start finish line in their qualifying order. The driver who jumps the start is sent to the back of the field and the race is restarted.
Passing a car that was driven all the way up to the wall, without interference by another car, is not a jump. SK Modified. Follow the link to the SK modified rules:. Mudboss Class Rules. Cannot cut or alter chassis other than shaving the ridges in the tray for a flat surface for. May use any Traxxas brand replacement part intended for the. Magnum transmissions. Exception Traxxas Ball diffs No ball diffs allowed. Slipper Clutch assembly must remain on the car, no slipper eliminator hubs will be allowed.
No Homemade shock towers or other suspension items or performance enhancing items will be allowed. No aluminum bulkheads. Must not be altered in any way. No removing or replacing of any components unless otherwise specified.
All suspension components must be installed in the proper positions and orientation on the car from the factory. Locking the differential will not be allowed. Both wheels must spin in opposite directions 9. May use any combination of stock grey or black wheel hexes that come with the kit. No aftermarket wheel hexes will be allowed. No double stacking or gluing wheel hexes together must have one hex per corner of the car. No metal bumpers, nerf bars or cages allowed.
No sway bars allowed Front shock tower brace allowed Battery must be mounted in the stock center tray location, but can be moved forward or back as long as it stays within the stock boundaries of the battery tray. You may use a different battery strap other than the stock strap however the battery must be properly secured. Car must not dig into the track. Any car that is digging into the track repeatedly must be pulled off and fixed before it is allowed to re-enter.
Adding weight to the car is OK but must be securely fastened. No weight allowed on the a-arms or nerf bars. All weight must be inside the chassis. Tuning, tweaking, or modifying the stock Titan motor in any way will not be allowed. Breaking in the motor is allowed. Because of this the torq ring will no longer be required. During this transition period you may remove the ring from one of the motors that came with a torq ring from the factory but the motor must otherwise be a stock unaltered Titan 12t The stock bullet connectors from the motor to the ESC must also be used.
Soldering the connectors together is not allowed. Any 2-cell Li-Po Li-Po must be charged max 8. Any plug may be used for the batter to ESC connection. However, direct soldering to the battery will not be allowed. Additional Glitch busters and Capacitors are not allowed anywhere in the system. Any slick tire. May use any offset of rim on any corner of the car. Any Traxxas white progressive tuning spring will be allowed.
This includes the different colored striped springs that are available from Traxxas. Springs may not be cut or altered from factory in any way. Must run front springs on the front and rear springs on the rear only.
One spring per shock. Too much tweak will make the car push and lose speed. Tweak is not a great chassis-tuning device. I basically leave the tweak about the same everywhere I go. Within a 1 oz. The only thing I use it for is if the car is too tight or pushy going into the corner, then I may reduce it slightly, but too much and the car will lose forward bite coming off the corner. Which is extremely bad because getting off the corner fast is where the real speed is.
For 4-cell set the tweak with about Stagger is a biggie. Think of an axle with one big wheel and one small wheel. When the axle rolls it will pull in the direction of whatever side the smaller wheel is on. That is why running stagger in the car helps the car turn. On a real racecar they run stagger in the inches. We run stagger in the thousands of an inch! Running stagger is not a necessity, especially on flat tracks.
Most of the time I run a little bigger LR or reverse stagger. Stagger in the front tires is also very important. Running a bigger RF will pick up weight on the LR making the car have more push. To start, I would run the car with no stagger. Depending on the cars handling add or take away stagger. If you have to run more than. Generally I end up with. As your tires wear you will lose your stagger settings! As a general rule most guys will tell you to set the camber so the tires wear flat.
This is a good rule of thumb. But Camber can do a ton for your cars handling. Reduce it to take away steering. Castor is important but not something that is of great help to beginners. First off, when looking at the kingpin from the side the upper part should always be leaning toward the back of the car. Secondly, the LF should always have less castor than the RF. Some of the affects of castor are this. Running lots of castor will make the car stable on the straight-aways, but this will add a ton of scrub to the car, slowing it down.
It is best to run as little castor as possible. That equals the least amount of scrub. Adding castor will make the car turn into the corner better and make it push more coming off the corner. Running less castor will make the car tighter entering the corner and loosen it coming off.
This will work at most every track. Like I said this is a very fine tune adjustment. Wheelbase is a hot topic of debate. It is my belief that short wheelbase cars are faster but they can be more difficult to set-up. I would always run short wheelbase and focus on working out your problems; you will be quicker for your troubles. When you shorten the wheelbase, you have to move the body back with it. In turn this will make the car push, then you can take steps to loosen your car back up.
The end result is a car with the necessary traction and a looser overall set-up, which equals faster lap times! By looser overall set-up I mean harder tires less rolling resistance , softer springs, etc. Rear track width, another biggie. Basically the wider the rear track the looser the car will be and a narrower rear track will tend to be tighter. The rear axle of your car is like a lever.
If you move just the RR out, it will have more leverage and the car will turn better. And in reverse if you move the LR out the car will drive toward the outside more, tightening the car. For flat tracks I like to keep the rear track width as narrow as possible, Preferably close to the same as the front track width. I will start the spring preload section, discussing the front springs. How do you know how much pre-load? If you increase the preload on the spring, the spring will act stiffer.
Increasing the preload on the RF will make the car push a little more, doing so on the LF will loosen the car slightly. This usually comes into play when the car needs a minor adjustment and not a whole spring rate change. Setting you side spring preload is simple.
With the shock fully extended, turn the adjuster until it just takes up all the play in the spring.
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