Stair runners come in many widths varying from 20" to 48" wide. The most common width is 27" for a standard staircase. Tiled Stairs Tile is another popular stair finish. Tiles are available in a range of materials and styles, from small and artistic mosaic tiles to terrazzo, stone and ceramic tiles. Like stone, tiles are heavy, so be sure your stair structure can support them before installing.
Geometric Patterns. Copious Carpet. Earthy Tones. Custom Made. Bold Mix of Color. Low Pile. Do you put carpet padding on stairs? Category: home and garden interior decorating. While it is not difficult to install padding on a stairway -- unlike carpeting -- do not install it in one continuous length. Install carpet padding in pieces to fit over the top of each stair tread.
Is memory foam carpet pad worth it? Is Upgraded carpet padding worth it? Which side of carpet pad goes down? Is 8 lb carpet padding good? What's the best Colour carpet for stairs? Suitable carpet colour for stairs. Is carpet padding toxic? What size carpet pad is best? How much does it cost to carpet stairs? Should I put a runner on my stairs?
Should stairs be carpeted or wood? Place the cut padding on the tread so that the back edge butts against, but does not cover, the tackless strip at the back of the tread. Pull the padding tight around the nosing and staple to the underside of the nosing in 3-inch intervals. When finished, the padding should fit smoothly over the tread with no bumps or wrinkles. Trim any excess padding where the nosing and the top of the riser meet using a carpet or utility knife.
Renee Miller began writing professionally in , contributing to websites and the "Community Press" newspaper. She is co-founder of On Fiction Writing, a website for writers.
Miller holds a diploma in social services from Clarke College in Belleville, Ontario. By Renee Miller. Related Articles. The laminate stair nosing will fit against the tread edge and be glued and screwed to the subfloor. Nose size depends on the manufacturer. They either sit on top of the tread and lip over the riser, or they are flush with the tread and sit on top of the riser.
Remove that amount from the length of your tread as well. Time to make your cuts. If you are sure your stairs are of uniform width and length down, you can go ahead and make all your cuts ahead of time. Before you cut your treads, take a look at your nosing. If the nosing has a groove, then it will sit in the tongue of the tread, so make sure you do not cut off the tongue of your tread when cutting it to width.
Assuming your stairs are of uniform size, cut your treads first. Accounting for your riser thickness and nosing width, start by cutting your treads to width. You can rent one, which is a cost, or you can simply use a miter saw, which most people do have. I use a fine-toothed blade for finishing cuts, which ensures a smooth cut without any tear-out. Cutting risers is just the same as cutting the treads — cut them to width first and then to length.
Remember to cut off the tongue end of the laminate risers. You want a flat top edge for your nosing to fit either on top of or over. The bottom of your riser should be the groove — if you leave the tongue on the bottom of your riser, you risk having part of the tongue exposed. Cut them to the same length as your treads and risers.
Otherwise, use a finish hand saw and cut carefully. Install your treads and risers. Start at the top of your steps and begin with the first riser. You are going to glue the riser in place using construction adhesive. Before you do that, however, you are going to score all of your treads and risers with a utility knife. This will improve the adhesion between the laminate and subfloor. You are also going to nail or screw your treads and risers to your subfloor.
You can do this in a couple of ways. I have a cordless finishing nailer that leaves a very small indentation in the planks. If you choose to nail, drill pilot holes first to help you drive the nails easily. Make sure every laminate plank has a few nails or screws in it, on either side. You can cover up the nails or screws with wood filler later to match the color of your laminate.
Screws will hold better than nails, but will also require more wood filler. This is the one time where you a little does not go a long way. Put nails or screws into the riser. Now you can glue and nail or screw your tread. Apply the adhesive in the same fashion, and fit it snug up against the riser. As you move down your steps, make sure your risers are not protruding up above the tread subfloor.
Some nosing will fit into the tongue of the tread and over the top of the riser. Others fit over the tread and sit in a metal bracket that you screw into the tread subfloor. You then glue the nosing and also screw it in. Regardless of the method of installation, be aware that the nosing of your laminate stairs will endure, by far, the most abuse.
Be sure to not only glue but also to screw the entire nose into the floor. Some nosing will allow you to screw from underneath, concealing the screw hole. If your steps have a dip in the middle of the tread and you find that your nosing has some give to it in the middle of the step after installing it, you might want to put a small wood or plastic shim beneath it.
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